A big ol' pile of grungy parts. It just came apart so easy. Especially the back end. All those parts that take forever when working in a little port hole sized opening are just right there for the picking. It was just begging to be fiddled with. The only part that was a stickler was the needle bar. The needle bar connection stud seems to be pretty well fused to the needle bar itself. Soaking in BlasterPB and trying to coax it to even turn slightly got not results. So It remained in the machine.
I was also warned off of removing the hand wheel. So I left it in place for cleaning as well. However looking at the parts list, the handwheel, arm shaft and take up thread cam are all listed as separate parts. So I'm thinking that I just need to figure out how to removed them correctly. One would think that dealer orderable parts would not need a machine shop to install. I'll look at the possibility again when I start cleaning the 1884.
The hook wasn't the worst I've ever had to deal with. And like everything else it came apart pretty easily. One gotcha though. The IFs changed about every year. I was thinking I could use the 1884 as a template when I went to put the 1883 back together. Unfortunately as far as the hook and shuttle were concerned that didn't work. It was one of the changes made between the two. Strangely though the 1883 configuration is closer to the final 15 set up than the 1884's.
Now as a disclaimer, the shuttle driver is also listed in the parts catalog, and it is definitely a "take it apart and you break it" kind of piece. So it is possible I'm over ambitious with my wanting to take the hand wheel off.
Like all the 15s I've cleaned the shuttle driver, oscillating shaft and crank all remained in place for cleaning.
Cleaning was basically dremeling. I went over the finish with oil a few times, but I'm not going to go terribly harsh on this one. While sketchy, the graphics are better than the 1884. Maybe on that one I'll get firmer with the surface cleaning.
Time spent on the Dremel was probably close to ten hours. I think I'm ready to buy a ultrasonic cleaner.
My problem with dremeling is the set up required. Since we are in an apartment I can't just keep my shop tools out and about. And the only appropriate space is out on our porch, which is a bit nippy during Connecticut winters. Luckily the last few days have been in the 40s, so it wasn't terrible.
The stainless steel wire brushes for the Dremel that I use cost over $3 a pop as well. I went through three of them on this, that's about the average. I tried some cheap knock off brushes that were horrible. The shred themselves just turning the Dremel on, before even touching metal.
I don't have space for a bench grinder and for times like with the stuck needle bar, when I have to work in a really tight area the Dremel is great.
The screw for the needle bar connection link looks a little slimey already. Putting things back together I was oiling as I was working and hadn't wiped everything down again yet. But trust me, it's clean. Along with the cam.
I had decided not to mess with the feed rock shaft or the feed lifting rock shaft since they were japanned. However I probably should have gone over the feed bar. The japanning is mostly worn off by this point and it's really noticeably ickier than the hook assembly behind it.
Having the side cover plate that runs the full length of the machine also makes is very easy to get a good cleaning on the arm shaft even though it wasn't removed. I also was able to clean the side of the take up cam as well.
Also the IF and the 15s as well have the crank connecting rod that comes apart at the feed arm. Another reason why I really prefer working on them to the 66s. You can take the screws out of the top and shove it off to the side out of the way for working on other parts and don't need to take out the arm shaft to remove it.
The hand wheel was dremeled in place as well. It's probably in the best shape of any of the older nickle plated hand wheels I've cleaned up. I guess that layer of dried slime that coated the machine did some protecting of it.
If anyone is looking for rubber tires for replacing on the machines with the full length belt guards, I was able to use (with a bit of effort) tires for a 29 on both the full length belt guard machines.
Final shot is of the bottom. Again, the Dremel is great for working in tight spaces. Though it does make a mess of grunge dust that coats everythign around what your are cleaning.
I was thinking of pulling the 1884 out of its treadle and putting this one in while I clean it. Unfortunately the mounting brackets are different. So today I went to visit a friend who gave me a set of later treadle irons without a cabinet. Now I just need to make a top to put this one in. No idea where I'll put it. We have been out of floor space even before I got the NF last month.
David, I don't use anything abrasive. Any plain steel parts go into a zip bag with Orange Goop, no pumice, to soak. Then they are put in a sieve and rinsed thoroughly with hot water. Next, they are baked until absolutely dry in the oven, maybe 250 to 300 degrees F. Once, I was out of Orange Goop, no pumice, so I tried boiling with a generous amount of baking soda, then rinsed and baked. I found that some of the parts had to be gone over with a tooth brush but I never had to do that with an over-night soak in Goop. I guess my thought is that I don't want to risk additional scratches or leave a residue that might add to wear.
ReplyDeleteThanks Sally, I've never heard that. I'll give it a go with the 1884.
DeleteThe only time I had an issue was with the 15-30 when the bobbin cover was completely encrusted with rust. I went a little over the top with the Dremel and ended up with swirls. I got rid of them with some #0000 steel wool. But I like the idea of just putting shiney bits to soak and leaving them to their own devices for the night.